I paddled in on the wave. the wave was gaining on me. Finally it caught up to me. I was in the face of the wave and it took me. I up quickly but quietly trying to keep my balance while putting weight on each foot. So I could move up and down the wave. Just as I reached the sand my dad suddenly caught a wave in and did a head-stand! He congratulated me and after that wave my dad and I couldn't help ourselves but catch more waves!